One of the most fascinating things about developing nations such as India is the juxtaposition of luxury and poverty. As one part of the country develops and rises to modernity, another part is becoming completely forgotten. Between the reconstructions, sidewalks, new multi-plex centers and malls, those who cannot fathom entering them are becoming an obsolete part of an old and rapidly disintegrating India. Though many would argue with me while quoting the nations GDP and booming tech industry, I daresay that this modernity, in many ways, is a facade. Perhaps facade is not the right word, because in an economic sense, India is certainly experiencing upward mobility and as far as globalization, or westernization, is concerned, you'd have to be blind to say it is not happening. However, simply saying "India is becoming a great modern nation" is an incomplete statement that is lacking in human consciousness. A more accurate statement would be, within the enormous financial disparity that exists, those that can afford to, are experiencing a rapid shift into western notions of modernity. In a town like Lucknow however, where government officials drive fancy cars right past people living in cloth tents on the street and we all get to go to shopping districts to eat and drink and make merry, while homeless children run around begging on the streets right in front of us, it's hard not to feel a little ridiculous tooting the modernity horn. Not to mention the lack of pure and basic amenities such as electricity. Since I have been here, we lose electricity for hours on end sometimes. It is my understanding that the situation in Lucknow is much better since it is a capital city and that in smaller cities/villages nearby, there is barley electricity for a few hours a day. How can a high rise in Delhi justify the situation in the smaller and so easily forgotten towns? It can't.
Though these seem like larger issues that don’t tie into the flow of our daily lives, or are far removed from a day to day routine, the truth is at least in front of us every day. Perhaps, the people that live here have become so accustomed to seeing certain sights that it blends into the background of their routine. Starvation, poverty, malnutrition, lack of education, disparity, the widening financial gap and lack of opportunity simply become white noise in the lives of people as they rush along.
While the fact that begging has been turned into a profession makes it difficult to gauge the urgency in the dissipating conditions of the poor, what is not hard to gauge is the pressing heat, the sweat dripping from our bodies as we step out into the city and the reality of children who should be in school as they loiter around the streets or try to shine your shoes/sell you some plastic toy. As I stood by the dhab stall, sweat dripping down from my temples, looking at the woman thinking over many of the issues recently mentioned, I caught eyes with the small child that was curiously staring at my making the video as he leaned against a newly installed lamp post. For a second I thought he was intently staring at me, but that flash was soon replaced by the accurate realization that he was staring at the giant coconut. Imagine 120 degree heat where the sun is so scorching that it has killed off most of the fish in the nearby pond and then the relief offered by amazing fresh coconut juice:
Once you've drank the amazingly refreshing juice inside, you can ask the guy working the stall to hack the tough green skin open for you and inside you will find fresh soft coconut flesh, which if you're anything like me, you will eat in its entirety in less than five minutes. The taste is rich and sweet at the same time; it's nothing that can be found in a package at a store.
In the midst of the heat, the dirt, the problems, somehow a small treat can make everything A-OK, even if just for a moment. In a day that was full of so many amazing things, I've saved the best for last:
